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Inlägg
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Hittade det här inlägget av Buzz från England på ett Amerikanskt forum. Beskriver lite om hur DF-65:an seglar. På sikt kommer vi att skapa en svensk utförlig trimmguide. Innan det är gjort så kommer jag att lägga nyttig information här.
The Dragonforce 65 is an easy boat to sail but needs plenty of attention to both rig and steering to sail fast, as the basic design gives a fairly neutral balance which can feel a little dead. If you sail in a fleet you will soon see those that have worked this out and the difference in VMG throughout the fleet can be large.
Sailing with the ‘A’ rig there is definitely a difficult period in the lower wind ranges when sailing against other boats. This however is not noticeable when sailing in a fleet of just DF65’s. I have sailed many hours with barley a ripple on the water and managed to have meaningful racing. This said the boat really starts to come alive at around 4-5 mph. This rig can be used to great effect up to 15 mph with little difficulty and as high as the low 20’s with experience. Between these figures you will need to be looking to change to the ‘B’ rig and control is king.
The ‘B’ rig has a good over lap with the ‘A’ which allows you to to sail competitively, with either rig, within that window and gives you the option to suit your sailing style and experience. As the wind increases the boat just gets better. High angles of heel don’t stop the boat speed or pointing (needs attention by the skipper) Leeway is fine until totally overpowered, but can be reduced by sailing the boat. Down wind the boat just fly’s accelerating in each puff with full directional control. High wind reaching isn’t its greatest strength as beam and stability are always going to be the limiting factor. With wind comes waves, the DF65 handles this with ease but finding the correct sail setting to allow tacking upwind needs some work (try flattening the main) but once sorted enjoy. Down wind surfing is no problem, pick your time to jibe, winch speed requires some steering input to facilitate a quick jibe. The ‘B’ will take you up to about 25-28 mph but again change as soon as you are struggling.
‘C’ rig is more of above and you will find full control both up and down wind until you get to above 35 mph when it comes down to you as a skipper and practice is the only answer.
Här hur Chuck LeMahieu i USA trimmat sin båt vid ett speciellt tillfälle. Han är en mycket erfaren radioseglare.
Obviously these measurements vary as well depending on wind conditions, velocity changes,, water conditions (waves chop, or flat), i just took my measurements which seemed very fast compared to the other DFs (Condition 8-15 MPh, big rolling waves, big velocity shifts) . My measurments on Boom angles: main/ 8mm pointing at inside of transom jib / 35mm inside mast to boom , Twist : main /60MM 2nd batten to backstay, jib/ 25mm to topping lift Foot : 20mm Jib 18 mm main ( recently started carrying more jib foot than main) Rake: 980mm Transom top to top of main swivel , Jib boom 15mm off deck to bottom of boom, My mast slide has stayed in the middle (need play with this more)Generally speaking you want to follow general best practices whn tuning the boat : Sail twist on main and jib should match, Im sure there are better tunes out there but this seemed fast for me… 😉
Mer nyttigt ang rigginställning från USA
In an effort to get our class going better, I hope that the people who do well in the regattas will share their boat set up. Chris Macaluso has been doing this for years in the Vic, and the results of others, including mine, are a direct result of Chris’ willingness to share, so here goes.
In our regatta yesterday, we had wind from as low as 1 up to about 11. That’s a huge range. I set my boat up at the start of the day and never touched it again. Tony Gonsalves, current IOM national champ, told me to never adjust your boat until someone is beating you on boatspeed. He told me this when I won two races in a row in San Diego in IOMs, kept fiddling with my boat, and changed it right out of tune! This is not to say don’t experiment, but if you have a quick set up in a regatta, don’t change it unless you’re demonstrably slower.
At our first Texas Series regatta in Houston, I got hammered. I had not built my mast correctly, and that was a tiny bit of my issue. I didn’t know what my problem was until after the regatta and I checked Chris’ boat. I had backstay, tight boom angles and pretty much an IOM setup. Chris? Loose, loose, loose.
We have flat panel sails. We have very narrow blades. So what I learned from Chris that day was to get the boat moving which will in turn make the blades work. So I came back to Dallas knowing I had to rethink the whole tuning business.
Here is my setup. All measurements are in millimeters except main boom angle.
Main boom angle: Sight from the back of the boat, and the end of the boat should be just inside the drain hole.
Jib boom angle: 45 mm from inside of jib boom to side of mast.
Jib twist: First off, mark the back of the leech with a pen at half distance from the clew to the head and measure from that mark to your topping lift. Mine was at 25 mm.
Main Twist: Again, put your mark on your main leech half way up. With the boat on its side and the main trimmed to sail upwind, measure from your mark to your backstay. Mine was at 45 mm.
Jib outhaul: 17 mm at deepest part
Main outhaul: 20 mm at deepest part, but it’s hard to judge.
Jib cunningham: None.
Main cunningham: None.
Backstay: No pressure on it. It’s only use is to keep the rig in the boat!
Bridle: MUST be centered. I lied about not touching my boat all day. Before the start, I found I was good on one tack and not the other. My bridle was about 2 mm to one side. The boat is VERY sensitive to this.
Forestay: Not tight, but not flopping.
Mast slide: Centered
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